When Mod hit the mainstream: The Carnaby Street style

Some say that the original Mod movement died somewhere in the mid sixties. Once it hit the popular consciousness, it had lost a lot of its appeal. I tend to agree. When I arrived on the scene as part of the Mod Revival, it was once again an underground movement. I always felt like I was part of an exclusive club.

But at one point in the 60s, the word “Mod” was applied to everything that was new, hip and mainly British. Fashion, art, music and design were hit by the Mod wave.

Here’s an example. I managed to put my hands on a 1967 spring/summer mail-order catalog from the Canadian retailer Simpsons-Sears. The “Carnaby Street style” had reached the American continent and was now sold in major, large surface chain stores. Since I wasn’t born in 1967, it’s hard for me to judge how close it was to the styles seen in a John Stephen window display that year. I can only assume. But from what I can see, it approaches more a caricature than what the “real” British Mod would wear. 

You do find a few Mod conventions that have stood the test of time. First is the Sta-press or Perma-press. To have a pair of trousers that always looks like it has just been ironed is classic Mod wear. 

The Tee Kay 'Mod' trousers

The slim fit hip huggers also kept their appeal. With the leg perfectly tapered, it’s something I would see myself wear. I also like what they call the “military pockets”. I’m considering adding flaps and buttons to my next pair of custom trousers.

"The all new 'Mod' trend... A real revolution!"

Notice how the leg is worn especially short.

Then there’s the ever-present button-down shirt. Paisley patterned garments had reached our shores in ’67 and still seems to be relevant today. Take this blue and rust polka dot shirt for example. I love the high collar and large cuffs with 3 buttons. I could probably do without the epaulettes. If I found it in a vintage shop, I would grab it.

The shoe section also offers a few Mod staples. Have you ever seen a pair of these? In this case, they are called “Sahara” boots.

The Chelsea boot or Beatle boot is still desirable footwear today. At $11,98 a pair, I’ll take 2 please!

A few pages seemed to have missed the mark. Take this Carnaby West page for instance. How hard was it to find a Vespa for a photo shoot in 1967? A motorcycle… I don’t think so. And what is up with that laced up shirt? Plus, I’ve never seen any self-respecting Mod wear what looks like an oversized denim suit. I might be wrong. I did find it amusing that they felt the need to advertise the belt as being “Mod”.

Now, as if the full on denim look and laced up shirt weren’t enough, why not combine the two?

You have to give them credit for pushing the boundaries a bit on this page. I’ll let you be the judge. The tartan short sleeved button down shirt is actually very nice and I own a few Ben Sherman’s that are very similar. 

'Mod' style

There you have it. Mail-order Mod circa 1967.  Shop at Simpsons-Sears and be part of the in-crowd!

The Lansky Bros. Mod connection

Lansky Bros. has been a Memphis based, family run clothing shop since 1946. Located in the lavish Memphis Peabody Hotel, they are a one-stop shop for exclusive, unique menswear. It only takes  one glance to convince you that Lansky offers a wide range of quality and stylish threads.

The Memphis Peabody Hotel loby

Their claim to fame is that they were the Clothier to the King, the one and only Elvis Presley. Now what does a Rocker's idol have to do with Mods? Let's consider this. Mods have been known to borrow a thing or two from the Rockers. Take the Harrington for instance; Elvis has been largely responsible for making the jacket popular. And there's no doubt that the Harrington is a well-established Mod essential. It's also a well-known fact that Elvis' own idols, the black jazz and  blues musicians of his native Memphis largely influenced his early style.

The first Lansky store was on the famous Beale Street, home of all the blues and jazz clubs. Bernard Lansky had a direct hand in outfitting the neighboring musicians in the finest mohair or sharkskin suits and peg-leg pants. His famous black clientele demanded sharp, smart and different clothes. On the top of the client list were legends such as Count Basie, Lionel Hampton, Duke Ellington and a young prodigy who called himself the Beale Street Blues Boy, later known as B.B. King. Later, soul legends Otis Redding, Rufus Thomas, The Temptations and the O'Jays all walked through the door.

Famous Beale Street, Memphis

We all know how the 60s Mods regarded the American jazz and soul musicians as fashion icons and worked tirelessly to recreate their look. That look was created in part by Lansky. If you are not yet convinced, let me offer this fascinating piece of information. In 1967, the Stax/Volt Revue made their historical trip across the Atlantic and was greeted in London by a legion of adoring Mods. When you look at the surviving footage from the benchmark tour, the four members of Booker T. and the MGs and the Mar-Key horns section looked like a million bucks thanks to Mr. Lansky. They each got two sets of Continental suits, one in electric blue, the other in cat-eye green. Lansky also dressed the seven band members in turtlenecks and Chelsea boots. Now if this isn't pure Mod fashion, I don't know what is. I can only imagine the loyal Mod following studying every detail of their wardrobe and making mental images for future reference.

 

Coincidently, Lansky Bros. were themselves being inspired by fashions emanating from Carnaby Street, evident by those vintage ads. Bernard Lansky has always been proud by the fact that they were bringing the latest fashion to Memphis. They always saw themselves as being on the cutting edge of fashion.

Vintage ads taken from www.lanskybros.com

When I first came across the Lansky store in Memphis, a Harrington type jacket immediately caught my eye in the storefront window. A nice fitting light jacket was displayed in a choice of teal, red or black. What made the Speedway coat stand out was it's two white vertical lines. That was it. I wasn't leaving Memphis without one. Since I was already wearing a light blue Baracuta, the red jacket was calling my name. There was only one problem; the store was closed for renovations!

Fortunately, I made a quick detour on our last day before leaving and the doors were open. The son of Bernard Lansky greeted me. Just like you would expect, the service was unmatched. I felt like I was treated the same way the King was, with warmth and kindness.

The legendary blue suede shoe and mod favorite, the desert boot

 

Today's collection might be geared more towards the rockabilly type but they have a few smart shirts that are worth looking at. Make sure you have a look at their website. They ship worldwide.

http://www.lanskybros.com/