The Dance Crazes of the Sixties - Mods & Rockers Unite!

If a man doesn't know how to dance he doesn't know how to make love, there I said it!

- Craig Ferguson

Mods dancing at Ready, Steady, Go!

I always loved to dance. At a club, if you want to find me, I'll either be behind the decks or on the floor dancing and sweating. I'm not the type to lean against the bar all night.

Little publicly known facts about myself:

- I took a good five years of latin dance courses. I enjoyed every minute of learning how to dance Salsa, Merengue and Bachata.

- The first time I was ever introduced to my wife, I was dancing on a stage next to her in a large club called Chez Swan back in the 90s. Too bad she doesn't have any recollection of meeting me...

- I can't count how many times I have fantasized, as a teenager, about being the Ace Face in the Brighton Ball scene in Quadrophenia.

What I like almost as much as dancing is spinning Soul tunes that are about dance moves. Dance crazes appeared on a weekly basis in the sixties and Mods were not immune to the fads sweeping the world. One of my all-time favorite tracks, that is garanteed to get a crowd going, is Wilson Picket's cover of Cannibal & The Headhunters song Land of a Thousand Dances. In it, you'll hear no less than 16 of these dances being named.

When I first put my hands on Terry Rawlings' book Mod: A Very British Phenomenon, I saw on page 115, the cover of this 60s magazine.

I was curious to see what was on the inside so I went on the hunt to find a copy. Was this going to be the ticket for me to become the Mod equivalent of John Travolta in Saturday Night Fever? I wanted to step up my game and be prepared in case a dance-off was to be declared against a Rocker.

Dancing the Philip Blues on Ready Steady Go!

Here are a few scans of classic dance moves from the era. I skipped the pages with demonstrations by the Rockers for obvious reasons. One, they look silly and the dances are, of course, boring. Did I really need to tell you that?

Click on image to enlarge it

After looking at the magazine, I thought I would try to name as many dances as I could. When Wilson Pickett sings about the land of a thousand dances, he's not kidding. There's even one called Doin' The Mod! I had the help of the internet when I ran out of ideas.

The Dave Clark Five

I tried to divide them up into categories to show you how themes seem to emerge. I tried to concentrate mainly on Soul tunes with the odd Pop song thrown in there for good measure. You can also check out this post I did in Febuary 2011 featuring Soul tracks that were all about man's best friend, the pooch.

Your classics:

The Twist, The Madison, The Watusi,  The Freddie, The Locomotion, The Jerk, The Mash Potato, The Bossa Nova, The Boo-Ga-Loo, The Harlem Shuffle

Mod favorites:

The Shing-A-Ling, The Block, The Shimmy, The El Matador, The Rubberneck (Ruberneckin'), The Ooh Poo Pah Doo, The Boomarang, The Jamaican Ska, The Rock-Steady, The Popcorn, The Swim,  The Karate, The Nitty Gritty, The Barefootin', The 45, The 81, Shake Your Moneymaker, Doin' The Mod, The Shotgun, The Snake, The Twine Time, The Funky Broadway, The  Tighten Up, The Grunt, The Bounce, The Thing, The Charge, The Get Down

The "how did you come up with this one/anything goes" category:

The Tumble Weed, The Uncle Willie, The Dish Rag, The Shake A Poo Poo, The Stereo Freeze, Hook It To The Mule, The Yolk, The Popeye Waddle, The Batman, The Choo Choo, The Jesse James

Your animal dances:

The animal kingdom was a great source of inspiration for a lot of dance fads of the sixties because as we all know, animals like the mule, the camel or the goat sure know how to get down on a dance floor.

I summed up so many different animal dances that I had to come up with sub-categories.

Move like a mammal:

The Pony, The Camel Walk, Philly Dog, The Gator, The Tiger, The Alley Cat, The Goat, The Mouse, The Mule, The Kangooroo

Critter crazes:

The Bug, The Roach, The Fly, The Mosquito, The Ants, The Beetle Squash, The Spider Walk

Shake a tail feather:

The Ostrich, The Duck, The Bird, The Funky Chicken, The Penguin, The Surfin' Bird

Prance like a primate:

The Monkey, The Boston Monkey, The Karate Monkey, Mickey's Monkey, The Tarzan's Monkey, The Monkey Bird, The Monkey Dog, The Monkey donkey, The Monkey Hop, The Monkey Jerk, The Monkey Jump, The Monkey Shine, The Monkey Stroll, The Monkey Walk, The Monkey Wobble,  The King Kong's Monkey, The Gorilla, The Bad Baboon

If you want to learn how to dance them all, good luck! Here's some advice. When the singer says at one point in the song "And it goes like this..." pay careful attention.

The proof that Mods & Rockers can get along

In order to get you started, why don't you shimmy over to the Parka Avenue Mixcloud page and listen to DJ Parka Pat's latest podcast - Land of the 15 dances. You'll find a compilation of some of my favorite Soul dances from the 60s.

And if you don't feel like learning all the dance steps, do like I do and freestyle baby!

This city's got Soul! A Mod's weekend in Boston

Every time I'm asked to be part of the DJ line-up at the weekly Soulelujah night in Cambridge, Massachusetts just outside Boston, I feel honoured. A six hour drive is not enough to keep me away. Not only do I get to rub elbows with some of the best American DJs like Ty Jesso, Josh Styles and Sean Quinn but the crowd is like no other. 

How many world class cities can boast having its most popular club night being a 60s Soul night? After the recent tragic events the city has endured, I'm humbled to see how its residents have carried on and continued to support the restaurants and the nightlife. I love this city!

New York's DJ Josh Styles

I rarely get to DJ where there's a line-up to get in and a fully packed dance floor starting at 11 pm. I can safely say that it's one of the highlights of my DJ career. For a sample of my playlist, I invite you to have a listen at the latest Parka Avenue podcast on Mixcloud.

A Mod's way to show support for a city is pretty straight forward... You shop! I didn't spend a lot of time digging for vinyl because I spent all my record allowance on a single 45 that my mate Ty was ready to part with. Frankie Beverly and The Butlers - If That's What You Wanted had been at the top of my want list forever! If you don't already know this Northern Soul classic then it's about time you get acquainted with this brilliant dancer. To say that this one is rare is an understatement and to have it on the original 60s Greek label Top Tunes makes it even more special. Only a few copies are known to exist.

The rest of my travelling budget was spent in a few local shops that were recommended by my adopted Boston family. How great it is to have a few Mod friends that are willing to share with you some of their secret spots. Oops! I guess they're not a secret anymore. And to do it all on a Vespa, well, that's priceless!

A little rain won't stop us!

Just a block away from my mate's Eric's place in Allston is the Urban Renewals thrift shop. Just like any thrift store, it's always hit or miss but when you hit gold, the rewards are worth it. In this case, I picked up two, practically brand new, button down Brooks Brothers shirts for 9$. That's what I call a steal!

Next was Store 54 on Harvard Avenue. This place has it all. Local art, records, collectibles, a few antiques and some great pieces of vintage clothing. 

Once you have gotten over the initial shock of seeing an "art sculpture" made of 45s, you head downstairs in  Ali Baba's cavern.

I managed to find a couple of cheap 45s to give to friends, a 45 record box (can't have enough of those!) and some really nice vintage slim ties that were very reasonably priced. The best part of this shopping experience has to be the friendly owner. A real nice gent and a welcomed change from my last encounters I had with record shop owners.

Truly the friendliest place in town

Our next destination was this little vintage jewelry shop called Twentieth Century Limited. It's the type of place that only a local lad would know about. Even if I had a tire blowout in the pouring rain on the way there (thanks Eric for taking care of the flat tire!) it was worth seeking out.

Once you have passed the front door, go directly to the back where you'll find the cufflinks and tie bar counter. If you don't find what you're looking for there, then you might as well give up on your search for the perfect pair of vintage cufflinks. I have never seen a better organized place. They are all orderly stored in labelled trays, by colour, theme or type of material.

I have long been searching for a decent pair of wraparound cufflinks and their selection was impressive. The find of the day has to be these deadstock links that are made to transform your ordinary pair into some classy wraparounds. Ingenious! Not bad for 12$.

Our last stop was a place I had been before on my last visit. The Garment District should be visited on a regular basis. You never know what you'll end up leaving with. 

A shame these weren't in my size

This time I put my hands on a handful of brand new 60s ties (still had the cardboard inside) and a dress for the lovely wife back at home. The best part about this place is that your girlfriend will think that you spent a fortune on her when in fact you'll probably receive some change on a 20$ bill. But don't worry, the secret is safe with me!

I don't how when I'll be back in Boston but I'm already looking forward to visiting again really soon. 

Pop Shop and Teen Beat - Mod Fashion for Teens

There's no aspect of Mod I will not seek out and explore. I'll go to any lenghts to unearth those little gems that give me a glimpse of a bygone era and that inspire me in the here and now. Sometimes it gives a perpective from within the scene, sometimes it's a view from outsiders. No mather where it came from, I always find it relevent because it helps me forge my own identity.

Let me take you back to January 1966 when the term Mod was on everyone's lips. Pop Shop is another one of those British teen magazines that used the word Mod indiscriminately and repeatedly (not too disimilar to this blog but for different reasons).

Pop Shop front cover

Pop Shop back cover

Miranda Ward wrote a typical teenage editorial sharing gossip and idle chitchat about how cute some certain band members are. I did find this excerpt interesting and worth a read.

Before I all but f.f.faded away (!) I went up to the "Glad Rag Ball" at the Empire Pool, Wembley. This all night rave is organised by the Students Union at London University and it is in aid of various charitites, Like Oxfam. Anyway, back to the point... up there I met the fabulous... guess who?... yes, The Who. I think the stuttering that Roger Daltrey does on their latest disc My Generation is great... it's a real raver. Their first LP is too. It has the same title as the single and I first heard it about three weeks ago before it was released, Keith Moon, their knockout drummer, put it on the turntable in their dressing-room up at Wembley... that was at 3 a.m. and I thought it wild. Since then I have heard it in the cold light of day and I still think it was wild... though it appears that they are none too happy with it. My two fave tracks are The Kids Are Alright and It's Not True, they are both a rave... but then in my opinion the whole LP is, so it is rather trying to choose a fave track.

The Ivy League

The Yardbirds

In The London Scene column, part of it refers to how Boutiques are popping up everywhere. It's interesting to note that in the sixties the word Mod was often used as an adjective rather than a noun. You had Mod clothes or Mod music but you were often refered too as part of the "in-crowd" or in this case the "with-its". In this article, I counted the term being used no less then 18 times! No grey area here, you were either a "with-its" or "without-its". Here's a passage I found compeling.

What has all this got to do with you poor readers who have lashed out half-a-crown for the goodies the mag contains and are having to sit there being lectured by me on the inequities of the "with-its"? Only this. It takes as much hard work, business acumen and plain common sense to run a "with-it" Boutique as it does to run a butcher's shop successfully or, for that matter a betting shop. So if you are contemplating opening one. DON'T unless you really do know how. This only applies to the few - we get two or three letters a week asking advice on opening Boutiques - to the many who just want to be customers - it can affect you in this way. Three years ago you couldn't buy "Mod" clothes over the counter... if you wanted to be way ahead in the movement you had to either make your own or have them made for you. At last manufacturers are starting to turn out the sort of clothes YOU want to buy... They are also beginning to wonder whether it is really worth the bother.

Well, let me tell you Miranda. It is always worth the bother.

Enough small talk, lets see what the fuss is all about. Let me step aside and give the fashion the centre stage.

Not sure about the tie...

Lessons in style by the master behind DNA Groove, Claudio De Rossi

The title of Ace Face is not something I throw around lightly. But when I think of Claudio De Rossi, the top brass behind the DNA Groove clothing line, I couldn't imagine someone more deserving of that title. He lives, breathes and exudes style. His passion undeniably translates into his creations.

I can't believe it took me this long before buying my first piece from DNA Groove. I have to admit that I have long been inspired by many of the details seen on his clothes when came time to have my own suits tailor-made. Isn't imitation the most sincere form of flattery?

So it was only a matter of time before I made the plunge. I suspect that, like many of my mates, I will become a long time customer. I recently bought this burnt burgundy herringbone pattern jacket.

This heavy wool fabric might not be ideal for the upcoming summer months but for a late scooter strole during spring time in Canada, I couldn't think of a classier way to do it.

DNA Groove Chianti60 jacket, white bespoke button-down shirt, 50s deadstock slim tie, 60s deadstock trousers,  burgundy Bass Weejuns, Lambretta watch

Although I have never met Claudio in person, we have exchanged pleasantries on many occasions in this ultra-exclusive, VIP only, secret Facebook group about Mod fashion. (Sorry guys, invitation only) So this goes to show how much this man loves clothes. He will exchange on the subject on his own time! You can also find him periodically on the DNA Groove YouTube channel, giving sage advice on how to skillfully combine what I call the 4 S (shirts, suits socks and shoes).

Aside from his incredible eye for detail, his search for the highest quality fabrics, I think what sets this man apart is his customer service. This is personalized service at its best. He even texted me while on vacation! You don't believe me? I will stake my reputation on it.

So what an honor to have him answer a few questions for the Parka Avenue readers.

Tell us how you got involved in the garment industry.

I was going to older tailors getting stuff made as Mods usually do ... that and deadstock items at shops. After I bought out an existing vintage clothes store (DNA), customers wanted to know where I got the clothes I usually wore. Vicenza and the Veneto region are the manufacturing centers of Italy (Diesel, Bottega Veneta, GAS jeans, Pal Zileri to name a few) so it was easy enough to approach local makers (who work for the big boys) to have small runs made up. Hipster trouser and shirts were the first to be made at the tail end of 1999 and sold as DNA GROOVE to distinguish the new lines from the other vintage clothes I still sold.

Where do you get your inspiration when you decide to design a new clothing line? 

Usually items I want for myself I put on the ‘to – make’ list. Can be pictures I see online or books, films, or something that is out there but not *exactly* like I would do it, so I make my own version. Or just stuff that I want but cannot find in my size, I make my version of it. It’s always items that have been made over the years so not really inventing or *designing* anything (that is why I really do not consider myself a designer). I’ve had a thing for clothes since I was very young so it’s natural for me to look at people and examine them, especially when they are wearing something that appeals to me in a new, different way (rather than the standard look I already wear and like most). This always gives me food for thought. I never limit myself to the ‘standards’,  both in the ‘high street’ way or the Modernist way. 

I went through a psychedelic faze in the late 90s which too was stimulating and was helpful to keep my outlook open and receptive (not to mention I was playing in a psych band so style and music went hand in hand). Now musically and stylistically I dig even further back, 1920’s America mainly, but any 20s – 50s style is very *do-able* and can be tweaked to suit my usual range.

You seem to invest a lot of time and effort in choosing your fabrics. How important is that to you?

When I see a garment, I automatically look at it and touch it. It is very important for me that I feel the fabric which will then be made into a garment, its fundamental that I *click* with it. I already picture it made into a specific garment and with this all possible matches start jumping out into my head.  I think that a garment not only needs to fit right, sit and look right, it definitely needs to feel right. Also colours, texture and weight are all important and all have their place to fill in what is the overall picture.

How do you explain Mods being such a loyal clientele?

I must say that not all my customers are Mods but surely most are in or around that scene. Mods are the best dressed people around (mostly), so I think it’s only natural that they see an attraction in well-made, quality clothes that are made by someone which has been and still is in ‘The Scene’. I still go to clubs and play the music. I still love the clothes I have always loved. I am part of it all and so have a clear idea of what we/they want and are after.

Also, the clothes are made in such small quantities that it will be extremely hard to find someone else wearing the same garment. Exclusivity and individuality are ever so important to us, and this is what I offer.

Lastly, the Mod scene has always been somewhat ‘intellectual’, in the sense that they love being informed musically, stylistically, scooters, fabrics, shoes, film, history (after all its been over 50 years since it all began), thus many are also receptive to the more ethical aspects of consumption. Many do look at the ‘Made in .. ‘ aspect and appreciate the fact that DNA clothes are made in Italy by small Italian family run companies, artisanship that is so rare to find nowadays, especially at this accessible price range.

Also, many appreciate the fact that a lot of effort is put into keeping unnecessary waste to a minimum, recycling is constant and this shows right through to the recent decision to use left over cloths from production for packaging the items. This is, dare I say, a first in the fashion world. Each item is sold in a hand sewn cloth bag made from left-overs, that you can then use for travel or storage. With DNA, esthetics and ethics go hand in hand and this is something your average mod approves of. Not to mention the lack of visible labels. Again, dare I say, a first in the fashion world? This is something very Mod in my opinion.

Mods are all about attention to details. Is that a priority for you?

Attention to detail is important as is attention to individuality, exclusivity and fit. A jacket needs to have a perfect lapel roll or the right shaped shoulder, sleeve length or trouser length. These are the details I feel are important, along with the limited availability of a particular garment, rather than a cool accessory or style (stepped trouser or fold-back suit sleeve for example) on an ill fitting garment.

 

Most Mods pride themselves in being staunch individualists in their fashion sense and don't like being told what they can and cannot wear. Some of us do make mistakes. What are a few fashion faux pas we should avoid?

Rather than say what one should not do or wear, I would rather say that one needs to wear something suitable for his or her frame and age. Keep it simple at first and then once the basics are taken care of, it can be upped a step. Quality always needs to come first and rather save to buy something decent than spend on something badly made (and thus usually cheap). Also be comfortable with your outfit or don’t wear it. That being said, my pet peeves style wise would be elongated shoes, long suit sleeves, long trouser hems, most pleated trousers and the colour black.

Any exclusive upcoming scoops you want to share with the Parka Avenue readers?

I am making a 3-piece suit which I am excited about. It's a mix between early and mid 20^th Century. New kangaroo basket weave patterns for shoes and working on a fur collar coat for the winter. Oh, I'm also excited about the incoming paisley silk ties.