Mods and Fred Perry: A long lasting love affair

When I was 16, I had a “clothes allowance”. I don’t remember how much it was in 1987 but it was enough to buy your average, off the rack, big mall, plain clothes. But at least I had freedom. I didn’t need my parent’s approval. I could make my own choices and start to forge my own sense of style. That was a great feeling.

Designer labels were pretty much out of my price range. That was until I got my first job working at McDonald’s after school and on weekends. It might have been minimum wage but at least I could start to afford the clothes that I really wanted. I was bringing home an average of around $120 every two weeks.

This is when I first met Fred. Fred Perry that is! I had seen Jimmy Cooper, in the film Quadrophenia, wearing the classic white, 2 button, pique polo with the blue piping around the sleeves and on the collar. Your classic Fred Perry look, a staple in any mod wardrobe. Quality wear made in England.

The shirt that started it all for me

My first Fred Perry - 1987

Most of you probably came accross the shirt countless times but for a young French Canadian living in Toronto in the 80s, finding a Fred Perry polo was harder than finding the Holy Grail. In 1987, you couldn’t simply Google Fred Perry on your computer. Finding the elusive shirt was more of a treasure hunt. It was thrilling and the reward would be that you had something unique and exclusive.

In the 80’s, Ralph Lauren and Lacoste were the labels you wanted to be seen in. Pastel colors were all the rage and you had to wear your shirt wide open, with your collar up in the air. I went against the tide with my shirt buttoned up and my collar firmly pressed. I didn’t care. I knew I was cool. I was in an army of one. I was a Mod.

I had found two small shops in Toronto who sold a very limited selection of the coveted shirt. One was on Queen Street West. I can't remember the name but that's where you found your basic Mod revival wardrobe.  You had a few Harrington’s, James Jacket's in black and red, your popular Bomber jacket, a rather large selection of Doc Martens and your imported and sought after Fred Perry's. I must have walked in the shop a dozen times to stare at my favorite piece of cloth before I actually bought my first Fred Perry. Today, you will find a store called Modraphelia on Queen Street West but I can't positively say it's the same store.

Another store, that I was aware of, carried the object of my desire. Situated on Yonge Street a few blocks south of Bloor, it was your typical cheap souvenir / concert t-shirt / rock poster / patches and pins shop. For some reason, it had a small section dedicated to really cool Mod clothes. Limited to only a few racks, this is where I also bought my first black gingham Ben Sherman button down. It was also the only place that you could find Carnaby Cavern clothes.

My father and I somewhere in Spain in 1988. I'm wearing my favorite Fred Perry at the time.

From that moment on, I never looked back. Fred has been part of my life ever since. Pieces from the latest collections, Japanese imports, limited edition shirts, special collaborations and 60s original pieces all rub shoulders in my closet.

Bronco Bullfrog - A piece of Suedehead history

The Who's Quadrophenia has to be one of the major reasons why I got so involved in the Mod culture when I was a teen. Jimmy's character spoke to me. Just like him, I always wanted to be part of the "in-crowd" and being French speaking, I always felt a bit like an outsider. For so many of you out there, that was part of the Mod Revival, probably felt the same way. There's no denying it, Quadrophenia is THE Mod movie. The same could probably be said of Suedeheads in Bronco Bullfrog.
 

I never had the chance to see it before. Released in British theaters in 1969 for only a short time, it achieved cult status almost instantly. It was never commercialized before this summer on video or DVD and its rarity made certain that it retained its cult movie standing.
 

Bronco Bullfrog is one of the rare and most honest depictions of the Suedehead culture. Suedeheads are the natural evolution and close cousins of the Mods. When Mods were becoming out-of-date in the late sixties, they eventually branched out into the Hard Mods, the Soul Boys or the Suedeheads.
 

I had heard there was going to be a one time showing of the movie at Blue Sunshine, Montreal's Psychotronic Film Center. What is a psychotronic film center exactly? Well... It's basically a third floor apartment on St-Laurent Blvd where a couple of movie buffs show some real underground stuff.
 

I met my friend Stéphane there and was invited to the kitchen for some beer and then to take place in the living room turned movie theater. We were treated to some Small Faces 60s concert footage while we were waiting for the movie to start. Quite a pleasant and unexpected bonus, I might add.

Our hostess then put the film in context by reading an excerpt of Richard Allen's novel Suedehead. Wow! She did her homework! She also explained how she obtained the rights to show the film. The story is quite simple. She wrote director Barney Platts-Mills prior to a trip to London and asked him if they could meet for coffee. He accepted! I thought her story was as captivating as the movie itself. She also warned us that she obtained the subtitled version. Really? Do we absolutely need subtitles? You bet we do!

Our hosts

The cast is composed of amateur actors that had no previous training. It is said that some of the dialogue was also improvised. Does this mean that I witnessed one of the first pieces of reality entertainment? Not quite, but for the untrained ear, the subtitles are obligatory.

The story revolves around the growing pains of Del Walker and his mates. Set in London's East End, the gang follows Bronco to pull off a heist. I found the film fascinating and touching. It won't be the type of movie I will likely watch dozens of times but I did escape to another time during 86 minutes. I wish that the soundtrack was more indicative of the Suedehead movement but overall I enjoyed it.

You can have a look at the trailer of the movie here:

Bronco Bullfrog - The trailer

You should also check out the good folks at Blue Sunshine for the upcoming events.

http://www.blue-sunshine.com/

Mods, parkas and pins (Part 2)

In the April 5th post, I revealed the pin that has a premiere spot on my parka. We all have a favorite pin that we will never part with. Today, we're going to have a look at the different types of pins the contemporary Mod will display proudly on his suit lapel. It's a whimsical glance at the various categories of pins, the button conscious Mod wears. So here is my top ten categories of the little round fashion accessory that has graced parkas the world over.

1) The vintage pin

This type is more of a fifties thing than anything to do with the original Mod movement of the sixties. Members of scooter clubs would wear them on their riding jackets. They usually represent your scooter model, your preferred brand of oil or gasoline or a tire maker's logo. They were often given away as a promotional item. Made of tin or plastic, they have a long needle in the back.

Those are getting harder to find and are quickly becoming collector's items. I like to wear mine on a classy suit lapel during a night out on the town. I don't recommend wearing them at a concert or on a rally. They are fragile and are easy to lose.

2) The typical 80s ska pin

Usually depicting Walt Jabsco or the Beat Girl, they can be seen striking a pose, dancing or playing a musical instrument. A distinguishing feature is that it has a small safety pin in the back. It screams Mod revival! Personally, I think there are too big for a suit lapel. I opt for my parka or the collar of my Harrington jacket.

3) The Mod target pin

It might be an obvious choice but you can't argue with the classics. It will look as good on a jean jacket as on a tonic suit. Wear it with pride and show your allegiance to your tribe.

 4) The enamel pin

This is the 21st century version of the traditional button pin. Very chic and easy to find, it's the perfect way to make a subtle fashion statement. There are a wide variety of choices. Chances are you can find your exact scooter model, in your color!

5) The military medal

Picture a young Pete Townshend wearing a white jacket or shirt full of patches. This is probably the closest to what the original Mods wore in the sixties.

6) The musical group button

This is a way to share your musical taste with the world. It's a trend that is also very popular with punks. Every Mod musical genre is up for grabs: soul, ska, rocksteady, jazz, garage, brit pop.

Aside from the Mod target, the iconic northern soul black fist rising has to be the most recognizable Mod image to grace parkas over the years. If you don't have one, grab your coat and go find yourself one right now!

  
7) The flag pin

Show off you national pride with a flag pin. The Union Jack is of course, by far, the most widespread pin. It is now elevated to the pop art icon status. You will find tons of different depictions and artistic versions of the British flag. Let's not forget the St George's Cross. It's also very present. Another popular choice is the Italian flag. Very closely associated with the Vespa and the Lambretta scooter, the Italian colors are often seen. And for all you ska fans out there, lets give an honorable mention to the Jamaican colors.

8) The football club pin

More prevalent amongst the Casuals and the Skinheads, it's hard to ignore the fact that some people are fanatical about their teams. Keep in mind that it might look cool on a bomber jacket or a Harrington but it should stay off, in my humble opinion, a sharkskin suit.

9) The cult classic movie pin

Quadrophenia has to be at the top of the list. The film is why a lot of us got bit by the Mod bug. Jimmy on his scooter is one the most popular pins around. Clockwork Orange, Blow-Up, Roman Holiday have found their way on a parka or two. My personal favorites are The Saint stick figure and the James Bond 007 logo. There is something about Mods and spies that just seem to fit.

  
10) The fashion brand pin

This is the type of button I don't really quite understand but have been guilty of wearing once in a while. This is the pin that advertises the brand of clothes you like to wear. The most common are: Fred Perry, Ben Sherman, Lonsdale and Dr. Martens. Why would you want to announce to the world you like a brand instead of just wearing it? It's the same as putting a pin that says Parka Power on your parka.

One pin that I could include in this category is "the" Mod fashion icon, Twiggy. Her face has become synonymous with Mod fashion. You will also find pins with a variety of different pin-ups posing on Vespas and Lambrettas.

So here you have it folks, hundreds of pins to choose from. Stick with what you like and don't go overboard. I saw a guy recently at a ska show that had about 10 pins on each lapel of his suit. He just looked silly and didn't have any sense of style. Choose one or two and mix it up every time you go out. Do it with class!

Do you a have a sentimental favorite? I want to know. Tell me about it...

Mods and scooters. What’s the deal?

When Sting, aka Ace Face, rides in on his silver Vespa GS in Quadrophenia, he’s the envy of every Mod. In 1962, the Vespa GS160 Mk 1 was the pinnacle of speed, technology and style. Mods in the sixties didn’t look back. They wanted the newest, most advanced, futuristic, stylistic machine on 2 wheels to hit the market. The Italian scooter was the premiere choice for the discerning Mod. The Vespa and the Lambretta hit every criteria.

Aside from being a very convenient mode of transportation, make no mistake, to a true Mod, a scooter IS an accessory. It’s a way to impress and be seen, a great excuse to attract attention, a guaranteed head turner, a canvas for self expression, a beacon for the opposite sex, a way to assert your individuality and stand out from the crowd. Let’s be honest, it’s a very noticeable way to “make an entrance”.

It’s a shinny accessory that can take you from point A to point B. Girls have jewelry, Mods have scooters.

The origins of the love affair between Mods and scooters began in the early sixties. The reasons why the first Mods adopted this way of travel are numerous.

Some are practical. For instance, a Mod can ride a Vespa to an all-nighter in his best threads and the legshield will protect him from the elements, for the same reason he will wear a fishtail parka. In reality, everyone who has ever ridden a vintage Vespa in the rain knows that a legshield the size of a Hummer won’t make much of a difference.

The engine being encased behind side panels also keeps nasty grease from ruining your tailored mohair suit. That was not the case for the oil spewing British motorcycle. When you spend a lot of time ironing your pants and achieving the perfect crease, you don’t want nasty dirt stains destroying your look.

Second, a Vespa or Lambretta was affordable. They were inexpensive to operate and relatively cheap to acquire. Sometimes you could find a Lambretta LD for a song and a dance. Of course, a top Mod would not dream of being seen on a LD. A Vespa GS or a Lambretta TV175 series 3 would be at the top of the list. Some scooter dealers offered payment plans to those who wanted the latest model, often including the tax and insurance in the deal.

It was also a very convenient way to help fit all of a Mod’s daily activities. Between going to work, shopping for new clothes, hunting down rare soul records, meeting fellow Mods at the coffee house and going to the clubs, you didn’t have time to rub elbows with the common man on the bus. Plus, you can park a scooter anywhere. Let’s face it, Mods are a busy species.

But the real reason why the Italian scooter is a Mod’s first choice is simple. It’s damn cool! On the hip scale, it’s a 10. OK, it hasn’t always been that way. For the longest time, scooters have been considered toys. Especially in North America, the scooter always suffers from an inferiority complex when it’s parked next to a Harley Davidson. But who cares about that. We know we are cool, right?

I bought my first scooter in 1997. It was a brand new, yellow SIL GP200 Lambretta. Looking back, it might have been a smart idea to invest my hard earned cash in another scooter, but I didn’t care. I wanted to parade on it every chance I got. This photo was taken during the summer of '97 during my cross Canada trip. I'm holding the break leaver I broke when I slipped on small pebbles going 5 miles an hour.

On a nice scooter, it’s easy to claim your independence. Just like the famous Who song goes: I can go anyway, anyhow, anywhere I choose…

Can You See The Real Me?

“Oh can you see the real me, can ya?
Can ya
Can you see the real me, can ya?”

The Real Me, lyrics by Pete Townsend

All hipped by the fact that I just launched my first blog and published my first post, I visited my friend Martin to show him the fruits of my labor. Martin, a genuine Mod in his own right since he was teenager, has been a good sounding board for the past few weeks.

I've been tossing ideas around of future posts with him and I value his opinion. He's certainly knowledgeable with the history of the scene and he can quote lyrics from obscure soul bands from the sixties at the drop of a pork pie hat. He impresses me every time he does so. One piece of advice that did stick in my mind was that he suggested that I should keep this blog personal. "Don't try to educate the masses,” he says. "You should speak from the heart. You've gotta have soul, man!"

I promised him that I would do my best to share my thoughts on what it is to be a Mod but that I would also give out info about the history of the movement or at least my take on it. I just can't help myself. I am an elementary school teacher after all!

After a few minutes of our usual banter, he gave me a few 45s he had as doubles and I left. Walking home (I live a block away), I glance at the records with a smile on my face. In the pile, there’s 5 original Tamla Motown, a Style Council, a Rolling Stones and a Fine Young Cannibals. “What a generous guy…” I thought to myself.

A few hours later, I sit back down at the computer to work on this blog’s next post. As I am lost in my thoughts, I start staring aimlessly at the beautiful photo at the top of this page. I love this scene in Quadrophenia. Hundreds of Mods marching down in Brighton, pumped with adrenaline, wearing parkas. It suits my blog to a tee. I just hope that I am not infringing any copyright laws. If I am Mister Townsend, please feel free to let me know. I’ll be happy to invite you to my loft so we can discuss what I owe you over a pint.

After staring at the photo for a few moments, I’m suddenly shocked by what I am seeing. Oh my god! I’m in the photo! There I am, part of the gang! That’s me in a suit and pork pie next to Dave! But… but… how did this happen? I start singing I Can’t Explain.

This can’t be possible. My blog has been hacked a few hours after it hit the World Wide Web? Nah! That can’t be it. I call up my friend Eve who graciously helped me that afternoon set the blog up and show me the ropes. I describe what I see on my computer screen and she has no clue what I’m talking about. I thank her again for coming up with the name of the blog and tell her that I will get back to her as soon as I find the culprit.

My next phone call was to Martin. As soon as he picked up the phone, he started laughing. I guess that solves the mystery. That’ll teach me to leave a computer without logging out. I learned something new about my mate Martin today. Not only is he a skilled prankster but he is also a talented graphic artist.

Thanks Martin.

Here is the original photo he worked from.

Once a Mod...

“Look, I don't wanna be the same as everybody else. That's why I'm a Mod, see? I mean, you gotta be somebody, ain't ya, or you might as well jump in the sea and drown.”

Jimmy, Quadrophenia

I became a full fledge Mod somewhere in 1986-1987. I was not part of the original movement of the 60’s (I’m only 38), was not born when the spirit of ‘69 made its mark and missed the ‘79 revival by a few years.

So what made a 16 year old French Canadian kid, living in Toronto, plunge into an obscure subculture; a way of life that would consume a young teenager and that some 20 years later, a wiser adult could not even shake?

I ask myself that question often.

In 1986 my father, working for IBM, moved the whole family from Montreal to Toronto. French being my first language, I attended the only French public high school in Toronto. One would think that being in a French environment, I would not be exposed to the quintessential British youth movement. I was wrong.

My good friend Greg, who also had a dad who worked for IBM, had moved to Toronto a few years earlier and was attending the only French private high school in Toronto. He was responsible for introducing me to a band called The Who. His older brother was a big fan. At that time, The Who was not considered a genuine Mod band. Hell, they were more Rocker than Mod. Just have a second look at the Who’s Next album and you’ll see what I mean. But it was still an introduction...

Greg then made me listen to a band called The Specials. I was hooked! The infectious rhythms of ska, the anti-racist message, the sharply dressed Rude Boys, were all that I needed.

Rebels in suits, advocating non-violence and unity, it was the perfect match. And how could parents of a teenage boy be against their son wearing a 3-button suit to school? I spent countless hours looking at that Specials album cover. I dissected every detail from the shoes they were wearing, the cut of their suit, to the style of their hat.

Album covers. That was my only reference back then. You had the odd magazine article to go on, but that was basically it. I had no one to educate me in all things Mod, no real live role models to emulate, no older Mod to pass the torch. Plus, Internet with its millions of links, was non-existent.

Being a Mod in a French speaking high school didn’t help much either. At least Greg and I did our homework. Every time we heard of a new band, we would tell each other. I remember him giving me my first slim tie. I have no idea where he got it but it was the ultimate Mod tie. It was a skinny, one inch, 60’s brown collegiate tie with a crest in the middle. I still wear it proudly.

By then I had jumped firmly on the train to Skaville. The 2-Tone phenomenon took a few years to cross the Atlantic and I caught the tail end of the wave. But was I more a Mod or a Rude Boy? That is a debate for another day.

It was the start of a long journey to my inner Mod. To this day, I not only dress the part, I am a Mod. This passion for music, style, fashion, design and scooters is more alive in me than ever. This is what this blog will be all about.

I don’t consider myself an expert or an historian. This is a personal account of a French speaking Canadian Mod keeping the faith. This is an intimate look into how a Mod lives in a Modern World. My interpretation is open for debate and your opinion is welcomed.

So keep on, keeping on!