A Mod's love for a nice pair of Sta-Prest

It’s easy to understand why Mods have adopted the Levi’s Sta-Prest as one of their must-haves in their wardrobes since the 60s. They were introduced in 1964 as a revolutionary trouser that never needs ironing and always “stay pressed”.

 

They fit the Mod’s lifestyle perfectly. One, they are American made. Two, they never wrinkle, have a permanent centre crease and are perfect for the busy Mod that has allnighters to attend, records to buy and his tailor to visit instead of spending precious time fighting with an ironing board. Finally, they offer clean, smart everyday wear.

I’ve never owned a vintage pair of the original Levi’s from that era but wear its modern successor on a regular basis. I have a black pair and a dark brown one that are ideal for work and casual outings. They still look great after a few years.

I’ve always regarded Levi’s as the company that has set the standards for quality and look but many other brands have followed suit in the “Sta-Prest” world. You can see some of these brands in vintage ads I’ve scanned from a 1967 mail-order catalog in a previous post. 

Lee was probably the closest competitor to Levi’s supremacy of the wrinkle free slacks market and was an acceptable second choice. I recently came upon a secret stash of brand-new, deadstock pairs of some of the nicest examples of the genuine article from the sixties. I almost had a heart attack! The best part was that they had my size and the price was too good to be true. Wait… Maybe they kept the 1966 price tag? I might be exaggerating a bit but they are certainly less then what you would pay for a brand new pair. Just a second… They ARE new!

I managed to put my hands on an immaculate pair of Lee beige trousers. The original tags were still attached! These are pants that were made to wear with classic Clark’s dessert boots or some burgundy Bass Weejuns. Add a colorful checked button-down shirt with a Marino v-neck or a time-honored Fred Perry polo plus a cardigan and you’ve achieved the definitive Mod casual look.

I also bought this pair of golden/brown colored trousers that are a tad more daring but look great on a night out or on a ride around the neighborhood on the Vespa. I like them because you can dress them up or dress them down depending on the type of shoes you opt for.

Now feast your eyes on some fascinating tags from various brands that have tried to carve themselves a place in the popular “permanently pressed” sixties pants market. Too bad they weren’t my size!

 

Card found in one of the Tee Kay pant's pocket

 

On the same shopping trip, I also found a brand new 50s/60s slim tie that has my initial on it. Can you believe that it has waited all this time to finally find its proper owner?

This is what I call a successful shopping spree.

The Mod’s Monthly magazine

Ever wondered what was behind the pink cover of the 60s The Mod’s monthly magazine? Have you ever wanted to peak inside and see what was discussed in the September 1964 issue?

On page 65 and 66 of the seminal book Mod: A Very British Phenomenon by Terry Rawling, you can see the covers of that coveted magazine. Ever since I got a glimpse at them, my curiosity got the best of me and I set out to find them. Over the years, I managed to put my hands on a few. The thing is, they are extremely rare and in demand. So you know what that means, right? Cha-ching! Pull out the wallet.

 

I thought that since they are so hard to find and expensive, I would spare you the heartache and share the content with the Parka Avenue readers. First, let me just make an hypothesis here. I don’t think that the Faces and trendsetters back in the day where the target audience. In fact, the magazine is geared more towards teenage girls and is kind of lame. That doesn’t keep it from being fascinating and a sign of the times.

It was a short-lived publication too, only lasting a handful of issues. I can only imagine that with the fast paced life of the original Mods, with its ever-changing fashions and trends, a monthly magazine would always be behind the eight ball.

In issue #7 (September 1964), Mark Burn’s editorial is quite amusing. I would hate to think that in 50 years from now, someone would stumble upon the Parka Avenue blog and have a laugh at my expense. The only similarity between our two publications is the overuse of the word Mod. Anyway, I let you be the judge. Here’s a transcript of the entire editorial. (Little mistakes and all) You’ll see, it’s pretty fab… I mean funtastic!

Crisp! Crunchy!! Funtastic!!!

Hello again!

It is as the saying goes, a really crisp and crunchy month, so we decided to change our whole front page. The words fab and gear are out – but OUT! Crisp and Crunchy are in. “Having a ball” is now replaced by “Funtastic!” Everything’s “Fun” now, instead of fantastic! But what of the changes in style. Well, like everyone, we are thinking towards the cold winter and autumn. Everyone is already working hard on discovering what new styles are IN for the winter. One style that will again be back this winter will be the kinky boots.

Duffel coats will be OUT this year, also the heavier anoraks. John Stephen, leader of the Mod males’ fashion, is still keeping dark about his winter fashions. Most of the girls’ fashions are likely to be checks or stripes, with the high, heavy collars. One fashion that is certainly catching on is but slowly, is one that we hinted about in our May issue of Mods. Cloaks!! Yes, cloaks. The big problem for Mods is where to get them. So many of the big fashion houses simply can’t or won’t make them, even tho’ I know for a fact that many “fans” of this new style will buy them.

I’m afraid that many cloak admirers will have to resort to making their own cloaks although this will probably mean a lot of hard work.

Other snippets of new… “Top Gear,” BBC 2’s programme is fast becoming a favorite with the Mods, and looks like a serious challenge to the once invincible “Ready, Steady, Go!”. If a few more people get BBC 2 this could develop into a battle royal.

One last point I have to make. Due to the tremendous mail we have been receiving we must unfortunately insist that you send stamped addressed envelopes in the future. We have a backlog of hundreds of letters, so if your letter hasn’t been answered yet, don’t despair.

Let us know however if you would like any particular styles put in “Mod’s Monthly.”

Mark Burns

P.S. To those Mod models we asked for, we are still trying to sort out the best amongst you, but it all takes time!

Another article worth taking a closer look at is the one entitled “Are You A Mod?” I was so happy I could finally put that question to rest! The only thing missing was a 10-part questionnaire, like the ones often seen in women’s magazines, with multiple-choice answers.

"First I must say that theoretically Mods run in an age group between 14 and 22. They are the top of the teenagers. Their dress and styles are original, different, unusual, and usually so successful that, especially in London, there are shops that cater only for the Mods and for no other set."

Well, strike one for me.

"[…] only rarely do Mods ever start fashions with completely new styles and completely new materials.

Take for instance, the latest pyjama suits, called Herbals! Many girls, finding they’re unable to buy them anywhere or finding them too expensive, have resorted to buying men’s pyjamas, widening the trousers, and sewing a lining in for warmth. One can’t say that Mod gear is ever static."

Pyjama bottoms as trousers. Pretty inventive, I must say. Still… Strike two!

"White socks are out. In and likely to be in a very big way are dark, almost black stockings, with a motif on them."

As a Mod revivalist teenager, I was guilty of the white socks fashion crime. Luckily, I’ve seen the error of my ways and socks are now something I pay a lot of attention to. Ball 1.

"Still in in most parts are the hipster trousers with the flared bottoms"

Striiiiiiiike three!

There is an interesting article on Carnaby Street that I will touch on in an upcoming post. The “Mod Mailbag” also provided me with a few laughs. But overall, it is what it is, a teenage magazine.

I have a few more issues that I will scan for your viewing pleasure. We can organize a slumber party, have some popcorn and soda, talk about our boyfriends and look at the pretty pictures.

Mods wear double-breasted suits too!

 

My closet has a fair amount of suits. Some are of the off-the-peg variety, a few are never before worn examples of the genuine article from the sixties and a handful are custom made to fit my Mod sensibilities. One thing seems to be missing from my wardrobe: the double-breasted suit.

Wilson Pickett

When you think of the Mod style, a double row of buttons on a suit jacket is not necessarily the first thing that comes to mind. Yet, there is no doubt that Mods have been parading in them since the start. So when I learnt that my tailor was making another visit to my city, I had a single purpose in mind, have one done.

 

I took my inspiration from a few sources. A couple of ideas came from one of the leading Mod clothes makers around, DNA Groove. They have a few stunning jackets for sale that can instantly turn any Mod into an Ace Face. I promise myself that I will make my first purchase from Claudio in the near future.

Modclothin also has a nice option that can make heads turn. I particularly like the pattern used in this fine example.

When confronted with a choice of fabrics for the garment, I went for a light brown, subtle Prince of Wales check with a hint of blue in the pattern. I always believed that the Prince of Whales pattern and the double-breasted jacket were the perfect match. It’s been a while since I’ve owned a Prince of Wales suit. The last one I ordered was from a Merc catalog back in the late eighties.

Aside from the typical features you usually find on a Mod suit like the slanted pockets with flaps, covered buttons, working cuffs and customary ticket pocket, I decided that I would go for a 6 button jacket instead of the 8. The narrow lapels, so often associated with the Mod look, are a bit trickier to achieve in this case. But a sixties inspired look, when compared to the flared look of the seventies, is easily distinguishable. Normally, I would give the jacket a bit more of a slim fit but it would simply not look good on me.

Since Mods are usually all about the details, I direct your attention to the stitching around the buttonholes. I chose a light blue thread, similar to the single strand of blue found in the Prince of Wales check.

I believe that this custom made narrow silk tie and matching pocket square, with its orange and brown tones and sparse paisley pattern, will match the rest of the outfit perfectly.

With a jacket that has such a complex and noticeable pattern, the shirt must be chosen wisely. The obvious choice is the classic white shirt. For the nights when I feel adventurous, I had this shirt made to go with the jacket. The black and brown vertical stripes don’t overpower the checks of the jacket. The orange stitching used for the buttons is meant to accentuate the orange hues seen in the tie.

The trousers have the required tapered leg. A 7-inch opening is what was needed for me to have a comfortable fit. A small notch, sometimes seen on the detail obsessed Modernist’s pants was added to the list of customized features.

The popular frogmouth pocket was an obvious choice for me.

I rarely discuss the accessories I would choose to tie the look together but I think that this time I will dive in and offer a few options. First, with these colors, I don’t think you can go wrong with anything that is gold. A vintage golden tiepin with ivory inlays would be first on my list. Similar cufflinks can add that extra classy touch.

My friends all know that I’m a watch fanatic. For me, it’s THE male accessory. This is why I have a watch for every day of the week (if not the month). In this case, I would opt for my Brooks Brothers gold tone chronograph watch with alligator skin band. 

If you want to carry out the vintage look, how about this 60s Seiko windup watch.

Let’s discuss footwear. I think that a pair of classic tan brogue boots from England’s premiere shoemaker Loake is appropriate.

If you want to go retro, how about a pair of these similar color vintage loafers?

So? After reading this, do you see a double-breasted suit finding its way into your closet?

Buying Soul 45s in Chicago: Part II

 

After writing this post, I just hope my friends will still talk to me. When you have a record shop like Logan Hardware near you, you want to keep it all to yourself. I don’t blame them because this is one of the best-kept secrets the city has to offer.

Don't tell these guys I wrote about this place. I still want them as friends.

For one, you have a ton of 45s to dig through and the prices are dirt-cheap. Once you have spent a few dinero, you can access the back room full of vintage arcade games and you can play at your heart’s content free of charge. How’s that for a perfect day?

Not only this store has an incredible looking storefront (that’s right, it used to be a hardware store back in the day) but also the staff is friendly and helpful. If any of you regularly frequent such establishments, you very well know that record shops are usually owned by two types of people: crazy paranoid record hoarders or petulant snobs. This might be a greatly exaggerated caricature but you know I’m not that far from the truth.

The staff at this place does not fall in any of these two categories. The charming salesperson even politely escorted out a homeless character who was monopolizing the listening station for a while. Not that I should have preferential treatment but he did listen to the whole A-side of Michael Jackson’s Thriller. It was quite entertaining to see him leave spewing out a few “Gawd Damn Maaan!” Nothing too dramatic it seems because apparently he will be back the next day to listen to that same obscure and priceless record.

Aside from the captivating drama, I did leave with a few choice records. I only have a single complaint. I still don’t understand why some stores still insist on putting price tags on the labels. The label is damaged almost every time when you try to remove it. Can we settle for  having it on the dead wax or the record sleeve please?

Here are some of my favorite picks.

Breaking Point – Etta James – Argo

The Urge Keeps Coming (Dance, Dance, Dance) – Jo Armstead And Band – Giant

What Time It Is (Part I) – General Crook – Down To Earth

I Need Somebody – Little Milton – Checker

Beverly – Billy Watkins – Kent

Hands Off – Betty Everett – Vee-Jay

Have More Time – Marvin Smith – Brunswick

Count Down (Here I Come) – The Young Hearts – Minit

It’s L.B. Time – Joe (Youngblood) Cobb – Gossip Tree

Don’t Turn Your Back On Me – The Mandells – Trans World Sound

This funky number is a reworked version of the Isley Brothers' hit It’s Your Thing with politically incorrect yet disturbingly funny lyrics like "If you kick my dog, I'll beat your cat".

I’ll Pay You Back – Magic Sam – Minit

On a less positive note, I also visited Dusty Groove America. Although they have an impeccable store with some of the cleanest records around, they certainly lack in friendly customer service.

In fact, you feel like a nuisance. You are only allowed to listen to 3 records and they will play them for you over the store’s system. My record dealer friend Laurent, who usually walks in a place with a few hundred dollars to spend, hasn’t had the best experience in the place. He once had to insist on having some service all the while having his name on a poster on the wall behind the counter.

Let’s just put it this way, Dusty Groove is not your friendly neighborhood shop, it’s a business. But if you're looking for a mint copy of a rare Jazz LP, by all means visit the place but you might as well just order from them online.

This explains why I left with a single 45 and Laurent with only 3. At least the record is one hell of a cracking Northern Soul killer.

Good Lovin’ Man – Dolores Hall - Keymen

I don’t think Chicago needs this little blog to cement its reputation has one the best places in the world to buy Soul and RnB records but just in case some of you had any doubts, it’s right up there with Detroit, New York, Memphis and New Orleans. With many prolific record labels that saw the light on Record Row, it’s a gold mine for any Mod wanting to expend his record collection.

I leave you with a very compelling and significant segment of a documentary about Soul and RnB labels in Chicago. This is only part 5 of the full documentary and I urge you to seek out the first 4 parts on YouTube. It's narrated by none other than Etta James.

Chicago has it all and I will miss it. I feel right at home here and the street art only reinforces the reasons why.

GO TO JAIL For Public Douchebaggery

Buying Soul 45s in Chicago

What happens when you put a dozen Mod DJs, a few record collecting nuts and some 60s music aficionados all in one room, that are ready to buy, sell, trade and swap records? A mighty good time, let me tell you! Plus, you get an incredible opportunity to find some smokin’ deals!

This is the precise scenario of what happened on the traditional Saturday afternoon MODchicago record swap that was held at Favorite Records. I had brought my own little box of French Canadian goodies that I knew would interest some of my compatriots. 

DJ Derek See record diggin' with the concentration of a Buddhist monk

Although about half my records found new deserving homes, I didn’t come back with a lighter suitcase. It was quite the opposite actually. I came out like a bandit and found some killer Soul. What is great about dealing with friends is that they slowly start to know your style, your taste in music and what floats your boat. They then start handing you records and phrases like “Listen to this Pat, you’ll like this for sure!” and “Do you have this? Oh man, you NEED this!” gets tossed around pretty often.

DJ Amanda Otto with her angelic smile

Lets be realistic for a second, when DJs congregate at a record swap, they are not there to sell off the best records of their collection BUT they won’t bring crap either. The old time saying “someone’s trash is someone else’s treasure” does apply perfectly here.

DJ Bossy Boots and Midnite Cowbwoy

So I’m more then happy with what I put my hands on here. I found some Soul that is made for the dance floor at a more then reasonable price. Here’s a good sample of what I left with. 

I Can't Turn Her Loose - Sam Baker - Sound Stage 7

Go-Go Girls - Lee Rodgers - D-Town

Get Set, Be Ready - The Auditions - Freckless

My Lucky Day - Frankie Newsom & The Soul Invaders - GWP

Don't Mess With My Lovemaker (Part I) - Frankie Newsome - Savern

Plastic Saddle - Joe Dossett And The Chattanooga Coachmen - Mercury

Boo-Ga-Loo Baby - Tommy & Cleve - Checker

African Boo-Ga-Loo - Jackie Lee - Keymen

(Papa Chew) Do The Boo-Ga-Loo - Tom & Jerroo - Jerry-O

People Sure Act Funny - Lucius Lawton - Laurie

You're Doing Something Awfully Good - Jackye Owens - Groovy

I Can't Use You Girl - The Vanguards - Whiz

Save The People - The Creations - Virtue

The Cold Letter - The Soul Shakers - Loma

Say I Do - Jackie Wilson & Linda Hopkins - Brunswick

A Good Man Is Hard To Find - Roy Head - Black Beat

I Can't Stop Loving You Baby - Linda Jones - Loma

Love In Them There Hills - The Vibrations - OKeh

The Truth - Aesop's Fables - Atco

Flowers On The Table - Bobby Merritt - Musicor

Take All - Lloyd Price - Jad

Hook It To The Mule - Fred Toyles & The Jacksonians - Way Out

Ain't My Stuff Good Enough - The Mirettes - Zea

Pain - Micheal's Mystics - Charlie

I Can't Stand It - Pacific Ocean - VMC

Little Bitty Pretty One - Popular Five - Minit

Lovin' Machine - Rodge Martin - Bragg

 

My mate, DJ Laurent Réus, a record dealer by trade, had also brought some desirable European gems that I simply couldn't let pass. You have to love those French picture sleeves!

Le Responsable EP - Jacques Dutronc - Vogue

 

Like we Used To Be - Georgie Flame & The Blue Flames - Colombia

Ne T'en Va Pas (Comin' Home Baby) EP - Sylvie Vartan - RCA Victor

The Lonely One - Tom Jones - Decca

If you want add to your own 45rpm record collection, it's all possible to do it online. Laurent will ship worldwide and all you have to do is hop over to his website at Revolver Records.

For more great deals, have a look at my man Eric Colin's eBay store here. He sells on a regular basis  and all his records have sound files. I dare you to find something that won't get those feet tapping!